Mavemacullen Townland

Loughgilly Parish, the River Cusher and its mills

HARRY O'HARE

Mavemacullen is the name of two townlands — Mavemacullen Upper and Mavemacullen Lower. Mavemacullen Upper with an area of 239 acres 1 rood and 30 perches is in the Parish of Loughgilly, while Mavemacullen Lower, 398 acres 2 roods and 38 perches in area, is in the Parish of Ballymore and Mullabrack. The highest point in the Mavemacullens is 301 feet above sea-level.
I was always led to believe that the meaning of the name "Mavemacullen" was "The Plain of the Mills." Some authorities would disagree. Through the Parish of Loughgilly flows the River Cusher used in the past as the source of power for many mills.
Over the years the spelling of the name of the townland has varied greatly. The earliest written form I have found is in the Hearth Money Rolls of 1664-65 when it was referred to as "Moy McCullen". Other versions are:—
— Mowillin — also Hearth Money Rolls 1664-65
— Maymawhillen — Family indenture 1815
— Maymaywhillin — Family headstone 1817
— Maymacullen — Family indenture 1827
— Maymawhillan — Map of Tenancy 1833
— Memacullen — Headstone 1859
— Maymacullen — Orange Hall 1923
— Mavemacullen — Present Day
— Mawhillen — In speech use, to my knowledge 1912.
'Mawhillen,' as I will call the townland in this article has within its boundaries, a church and graveyard, a manse, school, hall, shop. Post Office, Blacksmith's Forge, and 10 occupied farm houses. However, there are no mills within the townland.
The church — Clare parish Church, (Church of Ireland). The parish was formed with four townlands from Mullaghbrack, five from Loughgilly and twelve from Ballymore on March, 6th 1840. The lease of the site of the church was obtained from James Brown on 3rd March, 1841 and the church consecrated on October 13th, 1842. The first minister was Rev. Edward Bryce. He was succeeded by Rev. James Wilson in 1844. The latter married twice first to a daughter of William Hutcheson, Tandragee and then to Mary Prentice, the widow of Robert Prentice, in Drumbanagher Church on September, 9th, 1844. Rev. Frederick Trulock Hankin was minister from 1858 until 1877. Later this church became part of Loughgilly Parish.
Mawhillen Graveyard is the burial ground of the Harden family, former owners of Clare. The oldest dated headstone in the graveyard is that of Irwin of Corlust dated 27th December, 1832. This seems strange as the lease of the site is dated March 3rd 1841, eight years later. The headstone of James Dillon, who died in 1859 records his former residence as "Memacullen." 
The Rev. James Wilson and his wife Mary are buried in this graveyard.
Clare Manse is in Mawhillen townland. Built in 1879, it was occupied by the ministers of Clare until 1965. Previous to 1879 the ministers had resided elsewhere, notably Rev. John Bell who is buried in the Presbyterian Graveyard, Clare. Described on the headstone as "A laborious and faithful pastor, aged 57 years," he lived at the cross-roads on the Markethill, Tandragee Road still known as "Bell's Crossroads."
In this graveyard is a headstone recording the deaths of three brothers on 22nd, 28th and 29th November, 1918. Residents of Mawhillen, they died in the great 'flu epidemic which swept the country at the end of the Great War.
Mawhillen School attached to Clare Parish Church is in the same grounds. In the early years of the last century a 'hedge school' is mentioned in the townland in a Government Inquiry into education in the country.
Mawhillen Orange Hall built in 1923 is inscribed "Maymacullen." Previous to this the brethren met in a building owned by James Cunningham.
Thomas Haire was the owner of the shop in the townland and carried on an extensive trade in a wide variety of goods over many years.
Grocer, hardware merchant and funeral undertaker it is noted that in this latter trade he had 23 funerals in a period of 21 days at the time of the 1918 'flu epidemic.
Eleven Lane End's Post Office is also housed in this local shop, and has been in business for 100 years and more. In tenancy maps for 1833 and 1863 the area is called "Eleven Lonan Ends" and "Eleven Loanings" respectively. Named most likely in the old coach days the passengers having noticed that there were a number of lanes within a very small area.
The Blacksmith's shop in any district was one of the most important places. Known locally as "The Smithy," there was a time when Mawhillan had no Smithy. There had been one just outside the boundary at an intersection of five roads or lanes. This spot became known as the "Brick House" because it was here that one of the first houses made with brick rather than mud was erected. The smithy became vacant and the local undertaker, I have already mentioned, needing a smith to shoe his horses which pulled the hearse, erected a new 'shop' and got a smith, John Clarke in the late 1890's. This smithy closed in the 1960s.
The population in the country is less than it was years ago, and now there are only 10 occupied farm houses in the two townlands of Mawhillen. I can recall twenty occupied and point out the sites of at least fourteen others I have become aware of in my lifetime. Bassett's Directory 1888 lists eighteen residents, including Post Master Thomas Haire, Brick Manufacturer Robert J. Haire and the Reverend R. J. W. Wham. 
The latter died on the 2nd October, 1929 in Clare Manse, having at one time been Armagh Deputy County Grand Master of the Orange Order.
Mawhillen has one fort, rath, in Lower Mawhillen. It was a good example, until about four years ago an agricultural grant was used to help level the outer ring.
There is a Spa Well (Chalybeate) in a field behind Clare Church, Mawhillen, and there were numerous spring wells, many alas, filled in since piped water came to the area.

PARISH OF LOUGHGILLY
The present Loughgilly Parish extends from Mawhillen Upper to Ballintemple Townland near Newtownhamilton. On the 1602 map it is shown as "Locully." The parish was formerly known as "Castrum O'Hanlon," as much of the Cusher Valley belonged to the O'Hanlon's until their estates were confiscated for taking part in the Earl of Tyrone's rebellion in Queen Elizabeth's reign. The area known as Tyrone's Ditches is mostly within the parish boundary, in the townland of Ballenan. This is where the Earl encamped for several years, and had dug his defences.

In this district roamed several highwaymen, and no doubt Redmond O'Hanlon, Tory or Rapparee, moved through and maybe even escaped from his pursuers by walking across Loughgilly Bog. Posts were placed just below water level to make a ford for those how knew the path to take.
In 1613, John Madden, Rector (Loughgilly), got a Chancery Decree for £40 for cattle "wrongfully distrained on the lands ofLisdramcor and Coronagh," against Sir Archibald Acheson who, on the 19th June, 1629, however, got a Decree against him "in lieu of the profits of the Rector of Loughgilly 1624 and 1627.'' He resigned the rectory in 1628 exchanging with his successor for Donoughmore, Geo. Synge.
One of the larger houses mentioned in papers during these years was reported by Captain Pynnar's Survey 1618 - 19 .....
"Henry Bowcher, Esq., hath two thousand acres, called Claire. Upon this proportion there is a bawn of lyme and stone, being one hundred feet in length, and eighty feet in breadth, and fourteen feet high, with two flankers. There is now in building a good strong stone house which is fully two stories high, and a number of workmen labouring for the speedy finishing thereof.''
Another resident is noted in "The Post Chaise Companion 1786" when detailing the route from Newry to Ballybay via Ballymoyer.
"Within half a mile of Ballymoyer Church, on the left at the cross-road from Newry to Newtownhamilton is Ballymoyer Lodge, the seat of Sir Walter Synnot, Knt. The house is beautifully situated by the side of a deep glen, with a fine stream running amongst rocks through it. The plantations are extensive and well laid out.''

Hearth Money Rolls for 1664 show that there were 130 listed homes of one hearth within the Parish of Loughgilly. Six were listed for Mawhillen and none of the names is in the area now. The Mawhillen names recorded were, McGeough, McIrnan, McSherry, O'Keenan, and McGurigan.

In 1785 "Portnorris rioters" committed several "barbarous actions" in that quarter; "they broke and destroyed all the effects belonging to a Mr. Murphy. His damages in liquors and groceries were estimated at £100 loss besides the personal injuries that himself and family received." 
"Sir Walter Synott, Magistrate, left no means untried to reclaim these rioters to a sense of their duty but to no effect. Accordingly, some troops were sent to his assistance and he took four of these heroes by surprise. In 1787 the rioters were acquitted. It was confidently reported that some of the Papists took large bribes at these Assizes not to prosecute."
Papers in State Paper Office Dublin record that in 1796-8 there was an attack on 24th Dragoons at Loughgilly.

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